HI Ladies and Germs, here is the next post, its a long one, but then there was a lot happened.
Well after the previous night listening to the fauna of Africa, burp, squeak, chirp and fart outside our tents, the group awoke, bleary eyed to start the journey to the Serengeti. Our ride up from the Lake was very pleasant, travelling on roads which would make Europe envious, including some winding mountain roads that would not have looked out of place in a Lamborghini advert with a Dean Martin soundtrack over the top
The picturesque drive was brought back to reality however by coming across an upturned lorry by the side of one of the more sharp corners. Thankfully it was the site of an old accident, but even so, it had not been cleared away, leaving the locals to pick over the remains of the truck
In order to cross into the Serengeti, you take in the Ngorogoro crater rim. We paused at the National Park boundary to gaze into the distance, marvelling at how the mass herds of Wildebeest and Zebra looked like ants moving across the plains in the centre of the crater. As our guide was sorting our park fees for both reserves, we disembarked to look around at the edges of the crater and take pictures.
Around the buildings of the park boundary live various families of Baboons which seem to be largely indifferent to the presence of modified 4x4’s travelling past all day, work men erecting new buildings, the road being resurfaced and a plethora of other intrusions in their lives, instead seeming content to carry on regardless, grooming themselves on the sides of the road and generally treating humanity with a great degree of indifference – until Mayhem arrived...
In pursuit of that perfect picture Mayhem nearly lost his head to a Baboon due to sticking his camera into its babies face, it turns out that the mother baboons are quite anti paparazzi. It is a true shame that my camera was a booting up when the accident happened, as it was as entertaining as it was scary – well scary for him anyway, everyone else nearly burst laughing – we are a very caring group!
Following this little run in with the wild life – Mayhem was a little more careful about where he tried to stick his lens
The journey to the Serengeti was, by no means, easy or pleasant. Our vehicle has old fashioned leaf-springs as its suspension, and while they may be as tough as old boots, and thus are more than suited to the abuse they receive here in Africa, they also have the cushioning effect of old boots. SO only after about 5 minutes of the tarmac petering out, we had all developed Vibration White Bottom, which after 3 hours we were more than sick of. In spite of the steady destruction of our derrieres, the journey in itself, although not one I’d like to repeat was incredible. At one point the landscape looked as though we had taken a wrong turn and ended up in Scotland – apart from the brightly coloured Masaai tribesmen walking by the sides of the road.
The transition point from the Ngorogoro national park to the Serengeti appears bizarrely in the middle of the plain. After having descended from the Highlands, we began to drive across the featureless plains, no signs of life, water or inhabitation, just dull brown grass as far as the eye can see, and then rising up out of nowhere is a gate way surrounded by two trees marking the boundary. Nothing surrounding it, no signs of habitation, just a giant gate surrounded by a barren expanse. We disembarked briefly to take to obligatory photos and massage some life into our bottoms before carrying onwards.
While the gateway appeared to be merely symbolic, within 10minutes of passing through animals began appearing, apparently subsisting on fresh air, but there they were. Zebra, antelope and the odd Wildebeest.
Further travelling brought us to a wooded outcrop, reminiscent of Pride Rock from the Lion King, and as we pulled up into the car park the heavens, which had been brooding since we passed through the park gate. Opened they did with an ear splitting peel of thunder, true Africa rain it certainly was. The force of each drop blowing up little puffs of dust like shells hitting the ground, and as the standing water built up, along with the rains intensity bouncing almost as high as it fell. We sheltered under a corrugated iron structure to eat our lunch – refusing to get back into the vehicle until absolutely necessary. The rain abated as quickly as it began, leaving a fresh smell to the plains and giving myself and two of the girls the chance to follow a path to the top of our Pride Rock. From the top, you could see how much of an island in the plains we had found, and then we were treated to a fantastic sight – A herd of elephants walked out of the forest at the base of the rocks – even though we were at least half a mile away, you could not miss the Bull elephant leading the group. His huge tusks and great ragged ears speaking volumes about his life, then he treated us to an ear-splitting trumpet, sufficient to freeze the blood and seal this forever as one of the luckiest moments of my life.
We watched the elephant’s mill around on the edge of the woods, until they returned to their homes, and we descended back down the hill to companions to continue our drive to our campsite in the heart of the park.
The rain had made the going much easier than before, and the giant dust cloud that had dogged our journey since the last stretch of tarmac had been replaced by a continual spray of terracotta brown.
We were again driving through animals either side of us, dotting out into the distance, with the plains now broken by rocky outcrops, and increasingly more commonly, shade providing trees.
As the land became more lush and green, our guide ground to a halt 100m from a group of trees, and turned before frantically asking for a pair of binoculars. In the tree opposite sat our first big cat, camouflaged against the dappled shade of the tree was a leopard. Mayhem was already on his feet, bursts of shots coming from his camera, the cats every move frozen, and much to his joy, the cat leapt from the bough giving him his much desired “mid-air” shot. Upon hitting the floor the leopard disappeared from our view and our journey continued.
Our track was becoming muddier, with our vehicle travelling down two ruts now, rather than the dirt track which had previously held us. However our vehicle was the first to travel the track since the rain, and occasionally there would be a slight shudder and wriggle from the back wheels as they lost traction. Moments later the back wheels locked, the vehicle began to turn, with the back of the car coming to slide to the front. The driver tried to contain the skid, first turning into the skid, and then having the wheel flick back against him as the front wheels came out of the wheel ruts and ran out to the plain. At that moment the vehicle tipped onto its two side wheels, the ground coming sickenly into view, before the car landing back on all four wheels, right side up, much to the relief of its now shaken passengers. The driver then got out and engaged the four wheel drive system. Suffice to say our confidence in him never recovered, every minor roll sending us running for the grab rails.
Later we passed a sign indicating our camp was 500m further up the track, and just shortly after the driver stopped the car, and only 10m from the car lay a lioness. Certainly this was an impressive end to a journey.
We struck camp as dust was falling, and it was only over the evening meal was the point raised that our camp was in the middle of nowhere, with no gates, walls or fences, and only 500m from our camp had we seen lions. This was going to be a very exhilarating night’s sleep....